Italy: Social Justice, Women's Human Rights and Migration: Introducing Eritrea

Southern Eritrea - Marvel of Historic and Archaeological Sites

image of historycal site in southern Eritrea

Introducing Eritrea, images from ministry of tourism

Adi KeyhAdi Keyh is situated 115 km at the highest plateau south from the capital Asmera. Although the drive to this small town is windy, there is much to enjoy while on the smooth tarmac road that leads you straight to the town with a pleasing view of the landscape.
Kohaito

Located 11 km south of Adi Keyh and positioned on a flat plane area are the archaeological sites of Kohaito such as the "Queen of Sheba dam", estimated to be a place of worship, signified by the existing pillars, brick firing, and rock paintings that date back to approximately 400-500 BC.
Although most of the sites have never been excavated, the ruins of the Ancient City of Koihato are very impressive, because of their mere size.

In Kohaito, we find structures standing in columns of monumental arrangement, possibly temples. There is also a tomb with a cross indicating the faith of the high-ranking people in the ancient city.

A short walk from the village takes you to the edge of a vast canyon that drops away dramatically. The sights are spectacular, especially the seemingly inaccessible location of human settlements, farming areas and terraces that can be seen from far below.
Metera

Metera is located in Senafe 136 km south of Asmera. The word Senafe is derived from "Sanafen" which in Arabic means "Where is Sana?" this is said to have come from the question asked by the Middle Eastern (Yemeni) traders who used to pass through this area and climb the high-San'a. Just 2 km to the south of the town is the partially excavated ancient city of Metera. A one-hour hike to the iron cross on top of Amba Metera (Mount Metera) can be completed with little difficulty. If hiking is desired, it is important to ask some one to show you the easiest way.
One of the more obvious features of the city, until very recently, was a five meters stele (obelisk) with an inscription that has been dated to the 3^rd century. On the top is an engraved symbol of a South Arabian divinity, a disc cover and a crescent. Sadly, this ancient relic was deliberately destroyed by the Ethiopian army. It now has been restored and where it once stood. The archaeological site covers about 10 hectares conserved to almost two meters in height; the walls of many buildings can still be seen today. Excavation has revealed a growing city with several districts, with compel of villas inhabited by the crowded residential areas.
Ham - Debre Libanos

Apparently the oldest Christian monastery in Eritrea, Debre Libanos is supposed to have been founded in the late fifth or early sixth century by the Syrian missionary Aba Meta or Matewos (known as Libanos), who evangelised in Baqla and Seraye as well as Shimezana. Debre Libanos is about 150 km from the capital Asmera. Originally located in the village of Ham, the monastery was later moved to its present accessibly location perched on the edge of a cliff below the Ham plateau. Its church contains the "Golden Gospel" a metal covered Bible containing copies of land charters that date back to the early 13^th century, and a large number of mummified bodies were discovered right here, which are still in the process of being dated. Experts estimate the mummies to be over 500 years old.
The mummified bodies were wrapped in cloth, tightly wrapped with animal skins, the same kind of yellow cloth and animal skin that are worn by monks today. The few specimens of complete mummified remains had only the feet and hands exposed; the rest of the body was completely wrapped in skin. Astonishingly on the hands and feet, the skin and nail were very well preserved. This site is considered to be one of the most important in Eritrea and is already attracting tourists by the hundreds. Note: Permits to the archaeological sites must be obtained from the National Museum of Eritrea.
Adi Quala 86 km from Asmera is a fair sized market town of Adiquala. The drive from Asmera is a lovely one. The road passes through the mining area of Debarwa, which is at present a growing industrial town. This once abandoned Japanese copper, gold and silver mining infrastructure was built in the 1960s, and here gold and silver were extracted.
One thing that is demanded in doing during a visit in Adiquala is the walk to the Italian mausoleum on the hill to the south of the town. It is a fair walk of about 6km, but well worth it, as the path goes through some fine agricultural land with a superb view of the escarpment. The mausoleum tells of a significant historical event in the region, as it is the resting-place of some 8000 Italian troops lost at the battle on March 1896.
Zoba Anseba

Keren

The Zoba Anseba is situated to the North West of the capital city of Asmera covering a surface area of 21.500km. This zone sits upon a 500 - 2.500 meters range of altitude above sea level and boasts a highland temperate and lowlands warm climate. The yearly average accumulated rainfall is 500mm with a minimum rainfall of 150mm and a maximum of 850mm.

About 82 % of the population depends solely on agriculture as farming is the main source of income of the region, while the remaining 18 % depends on some other source of revenue such as trading and employment to meet their daily requirements. The region is rich both in domestic and non-domestic animals like ostrich, wild ass, leopards, antelope, fox gazelle, hyena and other species of animals that are under the threat of extinction.

Keren, Hagaz, Eden, Hamelmalo, Adi Tekelezan and Geleb are some of the interesting towns in the region worth visiting. The Zoba Anseba is rich in mineral resources, especially granite, marble etc., and it is also home to the only pharmaceutical factory in Eritrea.
Zoba Anseba is also home to many historical sites including monasteries, mosques and attractive Italian style buildings.

Keren is one of the most well known cities in the region of Anseba. This beautiful city is located 90km northwest from Asmera, and is about two and half hours drive by bus. Keren is a trading centre with a crossroads of many languages, family groups and religions. The camel caravans, the Turkish-style mosque, the inhabitants dressed in turbans and caftans are reminiscent of the Middle East.
The town of Keren was also the site of heavy military engagements between the British and the Italians during World War II. There is much to see in Keren, such as the British War cemetery, located right off the Agordat road to the north west of the town. With over 440 men from Britain, the Sudan, India, Cameroon and South Africa laying here, the places bears the mark of pain and pleasure for visitors to the site.

The Italian cemetery with its beautifully marked gravestones of the perennial bougainvillea is also a place worthy of a visit. A 20minutes walk past the Italian cemetery to the right of the market area will bring you to the most prominent shrine of St. Mary of Da'arit popularly knows as Mariam Da'arit. The shrine is inside a large Baobab grotto, which was inaugurated by the fifth Vicar Apostolico Msgr. Touvier on July 18 th , 1881. Gradually Mariam Da'arit has become a popular open shrine, a sign of unity and of religious devotion, regardless of congregational diversity, today the shrine encompasses an area of over 10 hectors, where oranges and guavas are grown in orchards.

Mariam Da'arit attracts many thousands of the faithful during the annual celebrations, which falls on the 29 th of May every year.
Other sign of significance to the Roman Catholic activity are the churches of St. Antonio, built in 1925, and the Sr. Michael's church, which houses the tombs of Bishop Fillipos Presutt (1845-1914).

Further to the south, behind the Keren hotel is the market area. On every Monday morning, there is a very interesting camel wood market that attracts people from all corners of the region. Across the centre of the market there runs a short street that doesn't seem to be as crowded as the rest of the streets in the area. Yet, it holds one of the features that make Keren unique for its silver jewelleries, such as "Hijal", which is traditionally worn on the ankle. "Tikek" and the "Wancha" that are worn as armbands, the "Sommet" largely worn as necklaces, Tikket a large completely rounded and hollowed ornament with fine dots and rough blunt points that makes it resembles a star are some of the popular tems, to name but a few.

Just before reaching Keren, at a slightly elevated area, one passes through a large agricultural project "the Elabered estate". Some Italian entrepreneurs once developed this estate, which is now a rich farmland that grows citrus with a major dairy establishment.

Elabered is a must see site in the Zoba Anseba as it provides a refreshingly green and serene environment. Located in the mountains on the edge of the "Mensa" district above the present day Elabered, stretches out the ancient Christian monastery "The Debre-Sina". This monastery is about 80 km from the capital of Asmera, and is said to have been founded by Aba Frumenatius around 480AD.
Debre Sina features an annual pilgrimage on the 29 th of June in honour of the patron St. Mary. Thousands of the faithful make that pilgrimage to express gratitude and to ask for her divine miracles.
Contemporary Asmera was built as the capital of the Italian colony of Eritrea between 1890 and 1940 and has a mixed Italian and Eritrean cosmopolitan feel and atmosphere to it.
Following the Italian occupation the British who administered Eritrea from 1941-1952 made Asmera the city of their administration.
However the British stay did not change the Italian feel of Asmera, till the Ethiopian occupation that brought severe defecting and utter neglect to the ones elegant city of Asmera.
Nonetheless, following liberation of Eritrea in 1991, the capital has slowly, but surely regained its old glory and charm following a major renovation and rejuvenation process.
The palm trees lined wide boulevards, sidewalk cafes and art deco architecture of Asmera coupled with its ever-pleasant climate makes the capital one of the most charming cities in Africa if not in the world.

In Asmera it is customary for residents to take to the Godena Harnet (Liberation Avenue), the main boulevard in downtown Asmera for a passeggiata - a dignified, unhurried, leisurely walk to see and to be seen as they enjoy the vibrant, multi-cultured pleasant evenings.
Asmera suburbs are also dotted with art deco villas that line the avenues and streets. Simple geometric shapes with classical proportions that are enhanced by sweeping horizontal curves and steeped towers also add grace to the uniqueness of Asmera.

Sightseeings
Cathedral

The Asmera main cathedral was built in 1923 by the Cappucini Association is located at the centre of Asmera on Liberation avenue.
The Italian style cathedral has a large tower, 25m high at the top of which are 8 bells weighing 100 kg each. Much of the interior of the church is hand crafted, decorated with large Angels' paintings as well as 14 Stations of the Cross.
The cathedral features three-payer session per week, with mass held at 6:15am, 7:00 am and 6:00 - 7:30 pm in Tigrina language and Italian languages. On Saturday, mass is held at 6:00 pm in English and on Sunday final mass is held at 7:00 am in Tigrina and 9:00 am in Italian.
Jamie Kudafa'e el Rashedin Mosque:

Built in 1938 during the Italian colonial era, is located in the centre of capital Asmera, next to the main fish market. The largest mosque in Asmera is built of lightly coloured stone, with very simple and plain decorations. The mosque features a large square right in front of it, where the faithful gather during Fridays and holiday's prayers.
There are five separate prayer periods during the day that are held at 5:00 am, 1:00 am, 4:00 pm, 7:00 pm and 8:00 pm. Women are not allowed inside the mosque itself, although they are permitted in a separate wing by the mosque.
St. Mary's Orthodox Church ( Enda Mariam)

One of the most interesting and attractive Orthodox Church, the St. Mary's was built in 1938 and is located on top of a hill. It can be observed practically from all parts of the city with its large towers sticking out into the Asmera blue skies.
The church is built of red brick with two huge bell towers standing in front of the entranceway. Inside the church there are a large number Byzantine paintings of angels and religious icons, including that of St. Mary's. The church features 9 masses held every month, one on Sunday as well as one for each saint's day/month, observed according to the Deoscorian calendar. It is customary that visitors take off their shoes before they get in the church. Women are also expected to cover their heads before they enter the church, whereas men should uncover their heads. When it comes to sitting arrangements inside the church, women should stand on the right side of the church and men should take their places on the left hand side.
Tank Graveyard

Located behind Denden camp (ex-Kagnew station), the site commonly known as the tank graveyard encompasses wrecked military tanks armoured vehicles and other relics of war left behind by the Dergue (Ethiopian Military Regime) while evacuating Eritrea.
British CemeteryThis is a military cemetery, resulting from the battle of 1941 against Italy. It is located on the Asmera-Massawa road.
Medeber

Medeber is located to the north of the main street running from the city centre to Edaga Arbi and the orthodox cemetery. It houses hundreds of privately owned stalls where diligent workers recycle every imaginable material into a mind-boggling number of items: pipes into rocking cradles, oil cans into stoves, rubber tires into rope and sandals, broken bed springs into chain links and more.

Delve into the rows of tin sheds where blacksmiths make axe heads, ploughs and other farms tools. Its main tourist attraction lies in the vast number of workshops localized in one place, the basic production facilities in use and the incredible resourcefulness. Most of the work is done by hand without the use of modern machinery.
Shopping

Candle holders; small sugar and salt jars; photo frames; shield and spears; jebena (the local coffee pot) etc., almost all hand-made, attractive and gorgeous gifts made of wood and clay are displayed in the shops.
Seeing evenly arranged pattern designs on the wickerwork, photo frames curved out of olive-tree wood, cups and other articles, it is not difficult to imagine the hard labour invested in them. Above all, it displays the amount of patience and great care to the making of such artefacts.
There is also fruit, vegetable and fish market, just a few blocks from Godena Harnet (Liberation Avenue) and the Edaga Lacha -the Palm market- which is located to the north of the Jamie al Kulafa'e el Rashedin Mosque. In Edaga Lacha one can find the clay pots, large urns of the same material, a soft leather slings decorated with seashells used by mothers to carry their babies on their backs and woven basket etc.
Museum

It displays archaeological and Ethnographic items such as national dresses of different ethnic groups, traditional housing of defendant nationalities, and paintings of the nine ethnic groups, cooking pots, wooden pillows and so forth.
Bet Ghiorgis ZooThe Bet Ghiorgis Zoo is four kilometres from the centre of the capital to the East of the Asmera-Massawa road. There are different kinds of wild animals with each kind in its own cage. At the far end of the petite zoo there is a snack bar and a small children's playground.

Situated on the main Godena Harnet almost 200 meters to the South West of the cathedral; between the Ministry of Education and the Telecommunication Office is the delightfully formal, light and delicate faced Cinema Asmera. This cinema was built in the early 1920s during the Italian colonial era.
Sembel SiteThe Sembel site is one of many sites from the 800 to 400 BC time periods. It s a very well preserved example of a large village. There are other larger communities of the same era around Asmera, such as Mai Hutsa (lost to agricultural developments) that were larger resembling towns. Archaeologist agrees that as interrelated communities they male up one of the most important civilizations discovered in Africa over the last 50 years. It is possible to glimpse the ancient way of life at the Sembel on-site museum located only 2km west of the Inter Continental Hotel.
Travel towards the airport, pass the Inter-Continental Hotel, and make a right turn at the stoplight into Sembel site. Proceed to Kidane-Mihret Church, turn right onto a track and then up the hill to the museum. Enter the on-site museum via the western entrance, following the signs.
Massawa

Situated on the Red Sea Coast, 115 km away from Asmera, Massawa is one of the oldest and most historic cities of Eritrea. Known to have been inhabited by Muslims in the 10^thCentury AD, it fell under Turkish domination in the 16^th century. Many of the finest buildings date back to the second half of the 19^th century, where major developments took place in what was the principal port for the Italian colony. Two causeways link the mainland, the Tiwalet Island and the main port island which is the heart of the old Turkish port area of the city, having ancient coral building and arcades that reflect the Turkish influence. There is also an old mosque that exhibits Muslim influence and some other houses built in the ottoman style of the 18^th century.

Unfortunately, most parts of the city were destroyed during the war of liberation, because it was a strategic target. Though many buildings still display the severity of the war, the city retains its unique charm as a cosmopolitan port city. At present reconstruction and rehabilitation of the city it on going. New buildings are under construction and Massawa is regaining its beauty. Close to the city are the beach areas of Gurgusum beach and Sheik Said Island that can be reached by a short boat trip.

The city is also the set off point for the Red Sea and the Dahlak Islands. The climate of the coast is much hotter than of the highlands. The hottest months of the year are April to September with temperatures reaching as a high as 45 C ° .